German wines are a miracle. Germany’s
vineyards lie along the 50th parallel—so do Labrador and
Mongolia—
making it the most northerly winemaking region on the globe. The climate at
that latitude makes it tough for grapes to ripen, but it also gives German
wines something, by nature, that other winemaking regions kill for: terrific
acidity. German wine differs from wines
of other countries — it's light, lively, fruit-forward, yet terroir driven
thanks to Germany's unique climatic and geological conditions as well as
versatile thanks to their multiple wine making styles.
With the exception of Saale-Unstrut and Sachsen in
the east, the wine-growing regions are concentrated in the south and
southwestern part of Germany.
They are among the most northerly wine regions in the world and straddle the
border between the humid Gulf Stream climate of the west
and the dry Continental climate of the east.
The long growing season and moderate summer
temperatures bring forth filigree wines that are relatively low in alcohol. The
diversity of German wine stems from the many soil types and grape varieties as
well as vinification styles — there is no "uniform" type or style of
German wine — and this diversity is reflected in Germany's 13 wine-growing
regions.
What distinguishes German wines, especially its white wines
(85% of total German wine), is a ravishing balance between this tangy acidity
and a bazooka- like delivery of fruit, especially in wines made from the
Riesling grape. You’ll find this electric balance in any well-made German white
wine, from dry to super- sweet.
Lamentably, it’s still a chore to figure out what’s inside a
bottle of German wine, despite an excess of information on a label (among which
you actually can read the government I.D. number for the bottler). The keys is
to keep things simple. All you really need to know is: at what stage of
ripeness were the grapes picked, and how sweet the wine is.
Better German wines are categorized by how ripe the grapes
were when they were picked, the idea being that the longer a grape hangs on the
vine, the sweeter and richer in flavor it gets. Wine made from very ripe grapes
has very much flavor—and, sometimes, very much sweetness.
If you know a little German, you can pick apart these words,
but in ascending order of ripeness these categorizations are: kabinett,
spätlese, auslese, beerenauslese, trockenbeerenauslese and eiswein. What you need to know is that kabinett and
spätlese can range from slightly to quite sweet, and that the other levels are
all (by and large) noticeably sweet. German
wines are either dry (called trocken), slightly dry (halbtrocken) or they can
range from semi-dry to very sweet.
Trocken wines can be screechingly dry, or with the
ever-so-slightest whisper of sweetness. Halbtrocken wines are about as “dry” as
Brut Champagne—and several “dry” California
or Australian Chardonnays—or about 1-2% residual sugar. Sweetness is
perceptible, but it isn’t in the forefront.
Remember that trocken and halbtrocken mark the level of
sweetness in the finished wine notwithstanding the level of ripeness of the
grapes when they were picked. For instance, you may see a spätlese trocken
wine. This would be a very dry wine made from very ripe grapes.
Of the several white and red grapes grown in Germany,
the greatest is Riesling, hands down. Riesling is the Lay's Potato Chip of
wine: Once you taste one, you can't sip just once. It combines exceptional
finesse and elegance with buckets of flavor—and a razor’s edge acidity
(Riesling can age for years).